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River Press and Accolades

Rob Young of "The Preview" - Charleston
Post and Courier
Thursday, February 28, 2008
"It's a mad world, where a Vermont ski chalet can wash up in an old
church on Market Street.
Mad River acts more lodge than luncheonette, its decor found by the
fireplace, mounted deer head and high wooden rafters. With four other
locations — sister streams — in New York, Baltimore, Chicago and
Philadelphia, Mad River functions chiefly as a lively bar given to a crowded
dance floor on weekends.
The club takes a backseat during lunch
hours, offering mostly bar grub, appetizers, burgers, wraps and sandwiches,
soups and salads.
We opted for the mini crab cakes ($8), breaded, rolled into balls and
deeply fried, served with a tangy sauce (think Bloomin' Onion) and lightly
fried onion straws. We dug it; the dish proved to be a warm treat.
Other starters include Southwest egg rolls, queso dip, nachos and a
promising mussels dish ($10), steamed in white wine, crushed tomatoes,
chopped garlic, lemon and butter.
The burgers pay homage to those sister streams, drumming up Chicago,
Manhattan, Baltimore and Philly creations. The Charleston ($8) is
represented by red onions, apple smoked bacon, melted Swiss cheese and a
nice honey barbecue sauce, the meat swallowed in a Kaiser roll. It's good,
filling and agreeable.
From the others, the Baltimore ($8) sounded most appealing, topped with
crab dip, cheddar cheese and Old Bay seasoning.
Wraps include a blackened and grilled chicken option ($8) with tomatoes,
red onions, Jack cheese and sort of a Ranch dressing. Tasty.
Try the fried okra, too, even better with a splash of Texas Pete.
All in all, the food had us gleefully, madly surprised".
Mad River Bar and
Grille
32B Market Street
Charleston, South Carolina
(843) 723.0032
www.madrivercharleston.com |